Thursday, January 7, 2010

All About Antarctica - For Allison




Susan – this is for you and your homeschool lesson – tell Allison that there are lots of types of ice that form here. There is sea ice that forms when the sea freezes and can be as clear as crystal (which means there is no air in it), icebergs that calve off of glaciers (small one are called bergie bits and there is another name for the really small ones but I don’t remember it), and fast ice that is, I think, connected to land (stuck fast to the land). Pack ice is the big pieces floating around; lots of the wildlife here depends on the pack ice to hunt and rest. If it melts they will be in trouble.
If you licked an iceberg the water would be fresh water – the salt and other minerals concentrate and run out through little capillaries. The deep blue in the deepest part of the ice is so blue because all the air has been compressed out by the weight of the ice and so only blue light is reflected back while other wavelengths are absorbed. I know all this because the 5 or 6 onboard National Geographic naturalists told us so. We are travelling with a couple of bird guys, a marine mammal guy, a historian, a geologist and 4 or 5 of Nat Geo’s photographers. I’ll send you their names and you can look them and their work up on the Internet.
The picture of the ice hanging kind of into the ocean is the bottom of a glacier that will eventually calve. You can see the deep blue being reflected from the ice. The deep blue pointy iceberg is that color because it had been underwater, but when the weight of the iceberg changed this part popped up to the surface, again the color means there is no air in the ice. The bunches of little pieces of ice are sea ice and the picture was taken in the Lemaire Channel.
If you look at your map, the place we went in the water is in the caldera of an active volcano. That’s why the water was warm enough for us to go in, it’s being heated by the magma under the beach. The island is called Deception Island. Right now we are in the Drake Passage, which is open ocean and is supposed to be one of the roughest passages in the world. Lots of people are barfing and those that aren’t keep falling all over because the ship is rocking so much. It’s kind of like learning to dance with the ocean.
There are penguin researchers counting colonies from a group called Oceanites with us. They are doing colony counts to see which species of penguins are doing well and which ones are not. One of them is also using isotopes found in hatched penguin eggs to figure out what the diet of the adults is. Then they will use that information to help them figure out how the food chain in the area is changing. There is also a group of divers doing research on underwater plants and animals in the area. Both groups show us their research in the evenings. The penguin researchers say that Adelie penguin numbers are falling very quickly, partly because the only eat certain sized krill and only nest in the same places every year. The Gentoo penguins are doing really well, partly because they eat fish and all kinds of krill and they will move if the area they have been nesting in no longer suits them. One colony of Adelies we went to had almost no babies at all (there should have been 1 or 2 babies in every nest) and the researchers said that was not unusual.

Wednesday, January 6, 2010

Palmer Station



Palmer Station! We had a party with some of the staff from the station last night (these people seem very glad to be away from the office for an evening, and to have an inordinate taste for Guinness) and we are taking a tour of the station today. I have added a couple of new birds to my life list, taken pictures of a yawning elephant seal from about 15 feet away and actually used several buttons on my camera. Today is our last full day of exploring the continent; it will be hard to leave.

Somebody tell Ly that the bug guys from the station were on board last night and they brought samples of a local mite with them. Very exciting. Tell him as well that two of the guides have had bot fly larva removed and that I will try to bring him pictures. Even more exciting than the mites.

Here is a picture of whale bones from Port Lockroy yesterday, they are left over from the whaling operations and a photo of the fracturing of the rocks due to the extreme weather conditions here. The rocks end up looking like loaves of sliced bread. I'll put some pictures of Palmer up after we take the tour.

Monday, January 4, 2010

Whales off the port bow



Yesterday morning we were treated to the emergence of four humpback whales. Two mothers and two calves. The National Geographic naturalists said they were feeding on krill and that one of the calves (the larger and older of the two) was learning how to hunt krill. There are some extremely interesting articles on how humpbacks capture schools of herring and krill in bubble nets this link will take you to the Wikipedia entry on humpbacks where this is described. I have included a few photos I took of their activity off the bow.

Sunday, January 3, 2010

My Seventh Continent






After spending a few days hopping around a few historically important islands and sailing through much of the Weddell sea, we finally landed on the continent. That makes number 7 for me and 4 for Becky. This landing was not as easy as many of the islands as there was no beach. Further, in order to investigate the local Chinstrap penguin colony we had a very steep climb to make (the descent was even more dangerous). We were rewarded with some beautiful views and some baby penguins. It was quite windy at the top and very cold. In these pictures you will see one of me at the base of the climb, one of Becky and me at the top of the climb, two pictures of the view from the top of the hill and a picture a few Chinstrap penguins at the top.

Saturday, January 2, 2010

Penguins Smell Bad





Yesterday we cruised around the Weddell Sea – lots of ice, very beautiful, so otherworldly in a completely blue, gray and white palette. We saw Emperor penguins; you can tell this is an Emperor by its size and the gold at its neck.
The bunches and bunches of penguins are Adelies from a colony on Devil’s Island, I think still in the Weddell Sea. We got to go into the colony itself today. There were thousand upon thousands of penguins, all crammed into one area. Apparently, these guys are very species-specific feeders and very attached to their home nesting area, which sadly bodes quite ill for their future. In the mean time, they are cute as can be. In the picture above they were performing in a Monty Python skit – marching up and down the square. Joel managed to center the entire ship on a 10-foot piece of ice. Most impressive.

Friday, January 1, 2010



Hi Everybody! We are having a fabulous time! I have seen 2 of the 4 holy grail birds of the trip - the wandering albatross and the emperor penguin AND we get to go walking on pack ice this afternoon. We are in the Weddell Sea, and we are surrounded by the types of iceberg I expected to find - It is absolutely beautiful.

Thursday, December 31, 2009

I'd like one cube in my Scotch please



Later in the evening, shortly after dinner (around 10 PM local time), we came across a large and wondrous iceberg. The pictures here are only a few of the 300+ we took. The blues found in the crevices of the iceberg are simply impossible to describe. The visible part of the iceberg was some 70+ feet tall and 150+ feet long. It towered over the ship. One photo shows the full length of the iceberg, another shows the incredible arc in the center and the last shows us in front to provide some sense of scale.